There is a wide range of mounting options available depending on your budget, DIY experience, the amount of space you have and where you want to install your system. Every option has its own advantages and disadvantages, and there is no single "best" solution. The right choice will depend on your property and how much effort you are prepared to put into the installation.Before deciding where to mount your panels, think about shading throughout the day, the direction the panels will face, their tilt angle, how easy they will be to maintain and how you will safely run the cables back to your inverter or microinverter.

 

!! Building control!!

 

Before starting any installation, make sure you understand whether planning permission or Building Regulations approval applies to your project. Small domestic solar installations often fall under permitted development rights, but there are important exceptions.If your home is listed, in a conservation area, National Park or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, additional restrictions may apply. Equally, some mounting methods, particularly free standing structures, can fall outside normal permitted development.Always check with your local authority if you are unsure. It is much easier to confirm compliance before building than it is to rectify issues afterwards.

 

Solar pergolas

 

Be very wary of building solar pergolas as these can easily fall outside permitted development and require approval. Check your local regulations for maximum height, their distance from boundaries and whether they adjoin your home.General permitted development rules vary depending on the property and location, but structures are commonly limited by height, proximity to boundaries and the amount of garden they cover. A pergola supporting several solar panels is significantly heavier than a decorative timber pergola, so structural design also becomes important.Again, do check your local planning requirements and Building Regulations to ensure your build is fully compliant before purchasing materials.

 

Ground mounts

 

This is probably the easiest set up for a DIYer. It allows you to achieve an optimal tilt angle and orientation without having to work at height, whilst making maintenance and cleaning much easier.The main disadvantage is that you are much more vulnerable to shading from fences, hedges, sheds and neighbouring properties. Even relatively small areas of shade can significantly reduce the output from a panel, particularly if your system does not use optimisers or individual microinverters.

 

Ideally, locate your ground mount close to an AC or DC connection point so you are not running unnecessarily long cable routes through the garden. Not only does this reduce the risk of somebody accidentally damaging a cable whilst mowing the lawn or cutting hedges, it also helps reduce voltage drop.

 

Voltage drop is where electrical energy is gradually lost over the length of a cable because the cable itself has electrical resistance. The longer the cable run, the greater the voltage loss. Using larger cable sizes reduces this effect, but thicker cable is also more expensive, so keeping cable runs short is usually the simplest solution.Ground mounted systems also need to cope with wind loading. Even a single solar panel can generate surprisingly large uplift forces during strong winds, so ensure any mounting system is securely anchored into concrete foundations, ground screws or another suitable fixing method.

 

Flat roofs

 

Firstly, make sure your flat roof can safely bear the combined weight of the panels, mounting system and any ballast you intend to use.

 

You can generally choose between bracket mounted and ballast mounted systems. Bracket mounted systems involve fixing directly through the roof covering into the structural timbers beneath. Whilst this can produce an extremely secure installation, it creates potential points for water ingress and will often invalidate the warranty on many flat roofing systems if not completed by an approved installer.Most professional flat roof installations therefore use ballast mounted systems. These use concrete blocks or other heavy weights to resist wind uplift without penetrating the roof covering.

 

Before installing any system, ensure your roof is structurally sound and capable of supporting both the additional dead load and the increased wind loading generated by tilted solar panels. Be careful, as even a small amount of sag in a flat roof can lead to standing water, which over time can damage the roof structure.Check that drainage outlets remain clear and avoid positioning ballast directly over weak areas of the roof.Spirit Energy have produced an excellent video explaining flat roof mounting systems, which can be viewed below.

 

Roof mounts

 

This is probably the most technically challenging mounting option and will normally require scaffolding or another safe working platform.

 

We only recommend roof mounting if you are confident and competent working at height as falling from roofs remain one of the leading causes of serious injuries during DIY projects, and the weight and wind forces on solar panels makes it even more dangerous than usual. Roof mounted systems generally provide excellent longevity, make good use of otherwise unused space and give installations a professional appearance without taking up valuable garden space.

 

Take time to locate the roof rafters accurately before installing any roof hooks. The roof covering should not be supporting the weight of the panels, the structural timber beneath should.Use suitable flashing or weatherproof roof hooks to maintain the integrity of the roof covering and always replace any damaged tiles whilst carrying out the installation.

 

Solar fences

 

As solar panels continue to fall in price, solar fences are becoming an increasingly popular option.These can make excellent use of boundary space, particularly where roofs are unsuitable or already full. However, remember that vertically mounted panels generally produce less energy over the course of a year than panels installed at an optimal tilt angle.Think carefully about how your garden is used, and even how neighbouring gardens are used. You probably do not want footballs regularly hitting the panels, nor would you want them positioned immediately next to a frequently used barbecue.Also consider future hedge growth. A hedge that is only waist height today may significantly shade the lower part of your panels within only a few years

 

 

Wall mounted

 

A somewhat novel but increasingly popular approach to mounting panels is using wall mounted brackets.Many DIY installers use Unistrut because it is readily available, strong and extremely versatile. Be careful though, the standard mounting nuts supplied with systems such as Fastensol are generally not designed for Unistrut channels and may pull through under load. Always use fixings designed specifically for the mounting system you are using.Wall mounted systems can work particularly well where roof access is difficult or where you have a large south facing wall. They can also make maintenance significantly easier as the panels are often accessible from ground level or a small ladder.Ensure you use correctly specified wall fixings appropriate for the wall construction. Brick, blockwork, concrete and timber frame walls all require different fixing methods. Never rely solely on the brick outer leaf if the mounting loads require structural fixings into the main wall.We found the video below to be a useful introduction to wall mounted systems.## Shed mountsThere is nothing more British than the humble shed and have a go engineering, making it an excellent location for a DIY solar installation.A shed provides raised mounting space without sacrificing your garden, often has a reasonable roof pitch already and is generally much easier to access than your house roof. If a minor leak were ever to develop, the financial consequences are also usually far lower than they would be on your home.Before installing panels, make sure the shed structure is capable of supporting the additional weight, particularly if it is an older timber shed. Reinforcing the roof rafters may be worthwhile if there is any doubt.Pay particular attention to cable entry points. Use suitable weatherproof cable glands and seal around any penetrations to prevent rainwater entering the building. Also ensure that the roof remains accessible for future maintenance.#

 

Glossary

 

**Ballast mounted system:**

A mounting system that relies on heavy concrete blocks, water or similar weights to resist wind uplift rather than being mechanically fixed to a structure.**Building Regulations:** Legal requirements covering the safety and structural performance of building work.**DC (Direct Current):** The type of electricity produced by solar panels before it is converted into household AC electricity by an inverter or microinverter.**Microinverter:** A small inverter fitted to an individual solar panel or pair of panels that converts DC electricity into usable AC electricity at the panel itself.**Permitted development:** Building work that can usually be carried out without applying for planning permission, provided it meets specific rules.**Shading:** Anything that blocks sunlight reaching a solar panel. Even small amounts of shade can reduce electricity generation.**Tilt angle:** The angle that a solar panel sits relative to horizontal. The ideal angle varies depending on location and the balance between summer and winter generation.**Unistrut:** A universal galvanised steel channel system with a wide variety of brackets, fixings and accessories used to support electrical equipment, pipework and increasingly DIY solar mounting systems.**Voltage drop:** Over long runs of cable, a small amount of voltage is lost because the cable has electrical resistance. Excessive voltage drop reduces system efficiency and can affect equipment performance. Using thicker cable or reducing cable length helps minimise voltage drop.**Wind loading:** The forces applied to a structure by the wind. Solar panels can behave like large sails during strong winds, making correct mounting and anchoring essential.